Orchid Reblooming Guide: How to Get Your Orchid to Bloom Again

Getting a Phalaenopsis orchid to rebloom is the question most growers ask after the first bloom drops. The good news is that Phalaenopsis is one of the more reliable rebloomers in the orchid family — it will produce a new flower spike every year when given the right conditions. The process is not difficult, but it requires patience and one specific environmental trigger that most indoor environments don't provide naturally. This guide, part of our Complete Orchid Care Guide, walks through the complete reblooming cycle.

The Complete Phalaenopsis Bloom Cycle

Understanding the full cycle helps set realistic expectations:

1. Bloom period: 2–4 months (individual flowers last 4–8 weeks)
2. Post-bloom rest: 2–4 months (plant rebuilds energy, produces leaves and roots)
3. Temperature trigger: 4–6 weeks (cool nights to initiate spike)
4. Spike development: 2–4 months (spike grows and buds develop)
5. Bloom again

Total time from last flower to first new flower: approximately 9–12 months in most home conditions. This cycle is normal — resist the urge to force reblooming faster by applying bloom boosters or extra fertiliser during the rest period.

What to Do After the Last Flower Drops

Step 1: Manage the Spike

Once all flowers have dropped, assess the spike:

• If the spike is still green with visible nodes (small brown scales): Trim just above a node to potentially trigger a secondary spike with additional flowers.
• If the spike is yellowing or browning: Cut it at the base to direct energy to new growth.

Always use sterile scissors or a blade — orchids are susceptible to viral disease spread through unsterilised cutting tools. Wipe blades with rubbing alcohol before each cut.

Step 2: Continue Normal Care

Do not change the care routine after blooming. Continue:

• Watering every 7–14 days, allowing bark to nearly dry between
• Fertilising with dilute balanced fertiliser at every watering
• Maintaining the same light position

The plant is now investing in roots and leaves. Healthy new leaf growth is a sign the plant is recovering well from the energy expenditure of blooming.

Step 3: Wait for the Right Season

The temperature trigger works best in early to mid-autumn (September–October in the northern hemisphere). Use the 2–4 month post-bloom rest to let the plant build strength, then initiate the trigger when nights naturally cool.

The Temperature Trigger Explained

Phalaenopsis originate from regions with distinct wet and dry seasons and significant day-to-night temperature swings. The cooler nights signal the plant to prepare for reproduction — which in orchids means producing flower spikes.

The trigger requires:

• Night temperature: 15–18°C (59–64°F)
• Day temperature: 24–27°C (75–80°F)
• Differential: at least 10°C between day and night
• Duration: 4–6 consecutive weeks

The plant does not need to be cold-stressed — temperatures below 12°C can damage Phalaenopsis. The trigger is a moderate, sustained cool period, not a cold shock.

Where to Put Your Orchid During the Trigger Period

Choose a location that gets cool at night but stays light during the day:

• Near a cool window: Windows in most homes are several degrees cooler than the rest of the room, especially in autumn. A east- or south-facing window that cools overnight is often sufficient.
• An unheated spare room: If you have a room where the heating is turned off or kept very low overnight, this can provide the right temperature differential.
• A cool hallway with a window: Hallways are often unheated and have good temperature swings.
• A porch or balcony on mild nights: Only suitable when outdoor nights stay above 12°C (54°F). Bring inside if temperatures drop lower.

The location must still provide adequate light — do not sacrifice light for temperature. An ideal spot is bright by day and cool at night.

Identifying a New Spike vs a New Root

New spikes and new roots both emerge from the base of the plant, between the lower leaves. This confuses many growers who remove spikes thinking they are roots, or keep watching roots expecting a flower to develop.

How to Tell Them Apart

• Spike tip: slightly flattened, mitten- or paddle-shaped, with a pointed or triangular end. As it grows, it maintains this flattened profile and will begin to curve upward.
• Root tip: smooth, rounded, uniformly cylindrical. The tip is usually distinctly lighter in colour (lighter green or white). Roots grow outward or downward.

When in doubt, wait. A spike and a root both start small — give it a week or two and the difference in shape becomes clearer. Never cut a growth point you are unsure about.

From Spike to First Bloom

Once you've confirmed a spike is developing:

1. Move the plant back to its main growing position. Return it to normal temperature — the spike is now initiated and the cool trigger is no longer needed.
2. Do not rotate the plant. Once a spike is developing, the plant orients its spike toward light. Rotating the pot causes the spike to try to reorient, which can result in a kinked or bent spike. Mark the pot so you always face it the same direction.
3. Continue normal watering and fertilising.
4. Watch the spike develop: It will grow upward, produce a series of small buds along its length, and the buds will open sequentially from the bottom up. This process takes 2–4 months.

Troubleshooting — Why Isn't It Spiking?

Insufficient Temperature Differential

The most common cause. If the home stays a consistent warm temperature overnight, the trigger never fires. Move to a cooler location or reduce nighttime heating.

Insufficient Light

The second most common cause. A plant in low light lacks the energy reserves to produce a spike. Ensure bright indirect light year-round, not just during the trigger period.

Plant Is Still Recovering

If the plant bloomed recently and is still producing new leaves, it may not be ready to spike. Wait until at least one healthy new leaf has fully developed before expecting reblooming.

Root Problems

A plant with extensive root rot cannot feed itself adequately to support spike development. Inspect and treat roots if the plant is not thriving despite correct light and temperature.

Wrong Orchid Type

Dendrobium and Oncidium have different reblooming triggers (often cooler, drier conditions for longer periods). If you have one of these rather than a Phalaenopsis, the approach is different — see our individual variety guides.

Reblooming Other Orchid Types

The temperature trigger approach is specific to Phalaenopsis. Other orchids have different requirements:

• Dendrobium: Many types need a cool, dry 3–4 month rest period in autumn with reduced watering and temperature drops to 10–15°C at night. Some species drop leaves during dormancy.
• Oncidium: A dry 4–6 week rest period with reduced watering (allow the pseudobulbs to wrinkle slightly) in late summer typically triggers spike development.
• Cattleya: Requires a rest period after each growth cycle, with reduced water and cooler nights. Blooming triggers vary by species and hybrid background.
• Paphiopedilum: Reblooms reliably with consistent year-round care and adequate light — temperature differentials are less critical than for Phalaenopsis.