How to Propagate Monstera: Stem Cuttings in Water and Soil

Finding the Node on Monstera

Monstera nodes are more obvious than on most houseplants, which makes propagation preparation easier. On a mature monstera stem, look for:

• The internode: the section of bare stem between two leaves. On large monstera, these can be 10–20cm long.
• The node: the slightly thickened, often darker section of stem directly where a leaf attaches. This is where roots emerge.
• The aerial root: a brown, cord-like root that emerges near the node. Mature monstera often have visible aerial roots trailing along their stems. If your cutting has an aerial root already attached, even better — it will root faster than a cutting with only a node nub.
• The cataphyll: a papery brown sheath near new growth points. Nodes near cataphylls are often the most active for root development.

Your cutting must include at least one full node — the visible bump where a leaf attaches. One node is enough to produce a whole new plant. If the cutting has an aerial root attached, that aerial root will become the new plant's primary root system.

Choosing the Right Cutting

For water or soil propagation, the ideal monstera cutting is:

• 10–20cm of healthy stem with 1–2 nodes
• At least one leaf in good condition (yellowed or damaged leaves reduce photosynthesis available to power rooting)
• A visible aerial root nub or, ideally, a developed aerial root
• Cut from a section of stem that is neither too young (soft and pale green, which can rot easily) nor too old and woody (which is slow to root)

Make your cut with a clean, sharp blade. Cut just below a node, angling slightly if possible to increase the surface area of the wound and the number of cells that can generate roots.

If you're pruning a large monstera that has gotten unwieldy, you may have multiple nodes to work with. Each node section can become a new plant — take as many as you have healthy stem for.

Water Propagation: Step by Step

1. Prepare the cutting: Remove any leaves that would sit below the waterline. One large, healthy leaf above the water is sufficient for photosynthesis. Too many leaves increase moisture loss and can stress the cutting.
2. Choose a vessel: Monstera cuttings benefit from a tall vessel (a vase, large jar, or even a plastic bottle with the top cut off) that can hold the cutting upright. The node must be fully submerged; the leaf should be above water.
3. Add water: Fill with room-temperature water. If your tap water is heavily chlorinated, either use filtered water or let tap water sit in an open container for 24 hours before using.
4. Position: Bright indirect light. Monstera nodes need photosynthesis to fuel root development. A north-facing windowsill with low light is too dim; the process will stall. An east or west-facing window is ideal.
5. Change water: Every 3–5 days without fail. Old water develops bacteria that attack the cutting before roots can form. Use fresh room-temperature water each time.
6. Monitor: Root nubs appear in 2–4 weeks. These are white or cream-colored projections from the node or aerial root. Let them develop to 4–6cm before potting.

Speeding Up Rooting

Monstera roots faster with warmth. Ambient temperatures of 22–26°C are ideal. If your home is cooler (below 18°C in winter, for example), consider a heat mat set to 22°C placed under the vessel. In cool conditions, rooting can take 8–12 weeks instead of 4–6.

High humidity also helps. If your home is dry, placing the vessel inside a large transparent bag or near a humidifier encourages faster root development.

Soil and Sphagnum Moss Propagation

Propagating directly into a solid medium produces roots that are already adapted to soil, avoiding the fragile water-to-soil transition. Two mediums work particularly well for monstera:

Sphagnum Moss

Sphagnum moss maintains high humidity around the node while providing good aeration. It's the closest thing to the naturally humid, bark-rich environment monstera grows in as a tropical climbing plant.

1. Soak sphagnum moss in water, then squeeze until just damp (not dripping).
2. Place a layer in a transparent container (so you can see roots developing).
3. Nestle the cutting so the node and aerial root are in contact with the moss.
4. Cover with a clear lid or bag to maintain humidity.
5. Check weekly — roots appear in 3–5 weeks. When roots are 4–6cm long, pot up.

Perlite and Potting Mix (50/50)

A well-draining mix of 50% perlite and 50% potting compost works reliably. Moisten slightly before inserting the cutting, insert the node 3–4cm deep, and cover with a humidity dome. Tug-test after 4 weeks.

Air Layering: The Advanced Method

Air layering is how you propagate a monstera without removing the stem from the parent plant — the cutting is essentially rooted before separation. This method is particularly useful for large, mature monstera where the stem is thick and woody and would be slow to root as a conventional cutting.

How to Air Layer Monstera

1. Identify a node on the parent plant with a visible aerial root or root nub.
2. Wrap the node and root nub with a generous ball of wet sphagnum moss (squeeze it to damp, not dripping).
3. Wrap the entire moss ball tightly with clear plastic cling film/wrap. Seal both ends with tape to keep moisture in.
4. Leave in place for 4–8 weeks. You will see roots developing into the moss through the clear wrap.
5. When roots are 3–5cm long and clearly established, cut the stem just below the moss ball.
6. Unwrap gently (or keep moss attached, as the roots will have grown through it), and pot directly into a well-draining mix. The moss can stay on the roots.

Air layering has the highest success rate of all methods because the cutting is already fully rooted before separation. The plant doesn't experience the stress of being cut and then waiting weeks in a vessel before roots form.

Propagating a Monstera Wet Stick (No Leaf)

A "wet stick" is a stem section with a node but no leaf attached. This happens when a leaf falls off or is removed, leaving just the stem. Many plant sellers offer wet sticks of rare monstera varieties at lower prices than leafy cuttings.

Wet sticks can absolutely grow into full plants — but they are slower, because there's no leaf to photosynthesize and provide energy. Expect 6–12 weeks before the node pushes new leaf growth, and during that entire time, the stick just sits there looking inert. This is normal.

To propagate a wet stick: push it into damp sphagnum moss or a perlite/potting mix with the node facing up. Keep warm and humid. Wait patiently. When a tiny new leaf emerges from the node, the process is working. Water roots are less important here — focus on warmth and humidity to encourage the node to push new growth.

Potting Up and Aftercare

When your water-propagated cutting has roots of 4–6cm, it's time to pot up. Choose a pot that is modestly sized — 12–15cm is appropriate for a single-node cutting. Too large a pot holds too much moisture, which can cause root rot in the newly formed, fragile roots.

Monstera prefer a chunky, well-draining mix: combine standard potting compost with 20–30% perlite and, if available, some orchid bark. This replicates the loose, bark-rich forest floor substrate monstera grows in naturally.

After potting, keep in bright indirect light and maintain the humidity if possible for the first 1–2 weeks. Water thoroughly, then let the top 3–4cm of soil dry before watering again. New leaf growth indicates the plant is fully established — this typically happens 4–8 weeks after potting up.

Troubleshooting

The cutting has been in water for 8 weeks but shows no roots

Check: is the node actually submerged? Is the water being changed regularly? Is the cutting in adequate light? Temperature? In cool conditions (below 18°C), rooting can stall almost completely. Move to a warmer spot and brighten the light. If the stem is still firm and the leaf is still green, the cutting is alive — it just needs better conditions.

The leaf is yellowing

Some leaf yellowing is normal, particularly on older or lower leaves. If the stem is still firm and you can see root development on the node, this is not cause for concern. If the stem itself is going soft and mushy, that's rot — trim back to healthy tissue and restart in fresh water.

The cutting has roots but isn't pushing new growth after potting

Give it time. Monstera often focus energy on root establishment before pushing new leaf growth. As long as the stem is firm and the existing leaf is healthy, the plant is working. New growth typically appears 4–10 weeks after potting up, sometimes longer for slower-growing varieties like Monstera deliciosa 'Thai Constellation'.

Frequently Asked Questions

Growing Your Monstera Collection

Monstera is one of the most satisfying plants to propagate because the cuttings are large, the roots are clearly visible in water, and the resulting plant has the same dramatic presence as the parent. One well-established monstera can provide dozens of cuttings over its lifetime — enough to fill a home, gift to friends, and maybe even sell locally.

Related guides:

• Complete Monstera Plant Care Guide
• How to Propagate Pothos
• How to Propagate Philodendron
• Complete Beginner's Guide to Propagation