What "Low Light" Actually Means
"Low light" is the most misused term in houseplant marketing. Walk into any garden centre or browse any plant website and you'll find plants described as low-light that would struggle and decline in a typical dim corner. No plant grows in darkness. Every single houseplant requires some form of light to drive photosynthesis — the process that produces the sugars needed for growth, maintenance, and survival.
What "low light" actually means in botanical terms is a light level of roughly 25–100 foot-candles (270–1,080 lux) — the equivalent of a room lit by a single north-facing window, or a position 1–3 metres back from a bright window. This is considerably more light than many assume when imagining "low light." A room interior with no windows, illuminated only by ceiling lamps, typically measures 50–200 lux — at the very bottom of what even the most tolerant plants can survive in, and only if supplemented by a grow light.
The plants on this list are genuinely shade-tolerant — they evolved in the understorey of tropical forests where sunlight is filtered through a canopy of larger trees, delivering dappled, diffuse light at intensities far lower than full sun. This adaptation means they can maintain themselves and even grow slowly in the dim conditions typical of north-facing rooms, interior hallways, and offices away from windows. They are not adapted to complete darkness, and "surviving" in very low light is different from "thriving" — you'll notice slower growth, smaller leaves, and less vibrant colour as conditions become more challenging.
The good news: for a significant portion of homes, the "low light" conditions described above (1–2 metres from a window, or a room with a single north-facing window) are genuinely adequate for the plants on this list. They won't put out the explosive growth you'd see in bright indirect light, but they'll maintain their form, push out new leaves periodically, and stay healthy for years with appropriate care.
This guide covers 12 plants that are legitimately low-light tolerant based on their biology — not marketing claims. Each entry includes care notes specific to low-light conditions, because how you care for a plant in low light differs meaningfully from caring for the same plant in brighter conditions. See our full best houseplants guide for a broader overview of the best houseplants across all light conditions.
The 12 Best Low-Light Houseplants
1. Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)
Pothos is the classic low-light survivor and arguably the most popular houseplant in the world for good reason. A member of the Araceae family, pothos evolved in the Solomon Islands as a forest floor creeper, growing in the deep shade cast by the tropical forest canopy above. This evolutionary history has given it an exceptional capacity to harvest diffuse, low-intensity light — making it the benchmark against which other "low-light" plants are measured.
In genuinely low-light conditions (a north-facing room, a position 2–3 metres from a window), pothos will produce smaller leaves and slower growth than it would in bright indirect light, but it keeps going. The stems continue trailing, new leaves continue unfurling, and the plant maintains its characteristic vitality even when other plants begin to struggle. Golden pothos, with its classic green-and-yellow marbled leaves, performs best; marble queen pothos (more heavily variegated with white) and neon pothos (bright chartreuse) will both grow in lower light but will revert to predominantly green colouring as they produce more chlorophyll to compensate for reduced light availability.
In low-light conditions, reduce watering frequency — the soil takes longer to dry out when growth is slow, and overwatering is the primary risk. Allow the soil to dry out more thoroughly between waterings than you would in a brighter position. A pothos in low light may need watering only every 10–14 days in winter. The plant will tell you clearly when it's thirsty — leaves develop a slight droop or curl. For complete care information, see our detailed pothos plant care guide.
Pothos is also one of the easiest houseplants to propagate — stem cuttings placed in water develop roots in 1–2 weeks, making it a plant you can share endlessly. NASA's clean air study identified pothos as one of the most effective plants at removing indoor air pollutants including formaldehyde, benzene, and carbon monoxide from sealed chamber conditions.
2. Snake Plant (Sansevieria / Dracaena trifasciata)
The snake plant — recently reclassified botanically from Sansevieria to Dracaena trifasciata, though most growers still use the Sansevieria name — is arguably the single most tolerant plant available for low-light conditions. It combines two exceptional traits that make it uniquely suited to dim, neglect-prone environments: extraordinary drought tolerance and genuine shade tolerance. For a forgetful grower in a dark room, it is essentially the ideal plant.
Snake plants use a specialized photosynthetic pathway called CAM (Crassulacean Acid Metabolism) — the same mechanism used by succulents and cacti — that allows them to open their stomata at night rather than during the day, dramatically reducing water loss. This means they can survive extended periods of both drought and low light simultaneously, a combination that would kill most other houseplants within weeks. In low light, a snake plant might need watering only once every 3–6 weeks, depending on pot size and ambient temperature.
The dramatic, sword-shaped leaves of snake plant — available in green-and-yellow banded varieties (S. trifasciata 'Laurentii'), solid green (S. trifasciata 'Hahnii'), and cylindrical forms (S. cylindrica) — provide strong architectural impact even in dim rooms. The plant grows slowly in low light but maintains its structural form beautifully. Unlike some low-light plants that become leggy or loose in dim conditions, snake plant retains its upright, compact form regardless of light levels.
The primary risk with snake plant in low-light conditions is overwatering. Because growth slows dramatically in low light, water consumption drops accordingly. A snake plant that needed water every two weeks in a bright window may only need water every month or more in a dim corner. Always check soil thoroughly — the entire pot, not just the surface — before watering. Yellow, soft leaves in low-light conditions almost always indicate overwatering, not light deficiency. For a full guide, visit our snake plant benefits and care guide.
3. ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia)
The ZZ plant has risen from obscurity to become one of the most recommended low-light houseplants globally, and the reputation is entirely justified. Native to drought-prone regions of eastern Africa, Zamioculcas zamiifolia developed a remarkable survival mechanism: it stores water and nutrients in large, potato-like rhizomes underground. These rhizomes function as a reserve tank, supplying the plant during dry or dark periods — which is why a ZZ plant can survive weeks without water or adequate light and look almost entirely unaffected.
The glossy, deep green leaflets — arranged in pairs along arching stems — give ZZ plant a polished, professional appearance that suits contemporary interiors perfectly. The glossy surface of the leaves is not a wax coating applied artificially (as some believe) but the plant's natural leaf surface, which reflects light efficiently — an adaptation that helps it capture maximum available light in low-light environments. This same glossiness makes the leaves look lush and well-maintained with minimal effort: simply wipe with a damp cloth occasionally to remove dust.
In very low-light conditions, ZZ plant grows extremely slowly — perhaps one or two new stems per year — but it maintains its existing foliage in near-perfect condition for extended periods. It rarely drops leaves, rarely develops pest problems, and rarely shows any visible distress as long as watering is appropriate (infrequent — every 3–4 weeks in low light). The plant is toxic if ingested and should be positioned away from children and pets who might chew on foliage. Wear gloves when handling, as the sap can cause mild skin irritation in some people.
ZZ plant is slow to root from cuttings and slow to produce pups, which is why established plants can be more expensive than other comparable low-light options. But the combination of near-indestructibility, beautiful appearance, and genuine low-light tolerance makes the investment worthwhile. It is, in many ways, the perfect urban apartment plant — it asks almost nothing and delivers consistent, reliable greenery.
4. Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior)
The cast iron plant earns its name in every sense. Aspidistra elatior is one of the most durable houseplants in existence — historically popular in Victorian-era homes in Britain specifically because it could survive the challenging indoor conditions of the period: coal-smoke-laden air, cold draughts from uninsulated windows, deep indoor shade (since buildings were narrower and windows smaller than today), and the irregular care of household staff managing dozens of rooms.
This Victorian heritage is more than historical curiosity — it tells you everything about the plant's actual tolerances. Gas-lamp-era interior light levels were far lower than what we typically provide even in dim modern rooms. The cast iron plant didn't just survive those conditions; it was specifically selected and sold because it thrived in them. For a 21st-century grower dealing with a north-facing flat, a dark hallway, or a dim corridor, this plant is the historically proven answer.
The dark green, lance-shaped leaves of Aspidistra emerge directly from the soil on short petioles and grow to 60–90cm in length in good conditions, though lower light reduces their ultimate size. They are thick, leathery, and remarkably pest-resistant — the tough leaf surface deters many common houseplant pests. Variegated forms exist (with white stripes or spots) and are striking in appearance but grow even more slowly than the already slow-growing standard form.
Growth rate is genuinely very slow — one to three new leaves per year in low-light conditions — but this slow growth contributes to the plant's longevity. Well-maintained cast iron plants live for decades. Watering needs are minimal: allow the soil to dry completely between waterings, and in very low light, the plant may need water only every 4–6 weeks. It is non-toxic to pets and humans, making it a safe choice for pet-accessible spaces. Wipe the large leaves occasionally to remove dust, which can significantly reduce the light the plant captures.
5. Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum)
Peace lily occupies a special place among low-light plants because it is one of the very few shade-tolerant houseplants that produces flowers — the elegant white spathes that have made it a perennial favourite for indoor spaces. Most flowering houseplants demand bright light to bloom, making peace lily almost unique in its capacity to flower in conditions other plants struggle to survive in.
In genuine low-light conditions, peace lily will produce fewer flowers than in brighter indirect light — typically flowering once or twice a year rather than the more frequent flowering you'd see near a window. But even in dim conditions, it maintains its lush, glossy foliage reliably and will still produce some blooms, making it one of the most rewarding low-light choices for those who want more than just foliage.
Peace lily is famously expressive when it needs water — the leaves droop dramatically and visibly at the first sign of thirst, then perk up fully within a few hours of watering. This communication makes it an ideal plant for those learning to read plant signals, since the feedback loop between neglect and response is immediate and obvious. In low-light conditions, water less frequently (the soil takes longer to dry) but be ready to respond when the plant droops. See our complete peace lily care guide for detailed guidance.
One important note: peace lily is toxic if ingested by pets or humans, causing irritation to the mouth and digestive system. Keep it out of reach of curious animals and young children. It is also worth noting that peace lily is sensitive to fluoride in tap water — brown leaf tips in otherwise well-maintained plants are often a sign of fluoride sensitivity rather than any care problem. Using filtered or rainwater significantly improves leaf appearance.
In terms of air quality, peace lily was one of the standout performers in NASA's clean air study, showing strong capacity to remove common indoor air pollutants. While the real-world air purification effect of a few potted plants in a normal-sized room is modest, peace lily is genuinely among the most effective options available.
6. Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum)
The heartleaf philodendron is often grouped with pothos in discussions of low-light plants — and for good reason. The two plants share similar care requirements, similar trailing growth habits, and similar light tolerances, to the point where many beginners confuse them. Both are members of the Araceae family, both evolved in tropical forest understorey environments, and both are exceptionally forgiving of the dim conditions typical of north-facing or interior rooms.
What distinguishes heartleaf philodendron from pothos is primarily the leaf form — the characteristic heart-shaped leaves with a slightly velvety texture in younger growth — and a slightly more matte leaf surface. Where pothos leaves have a waxy, slightly glossy look, philodendron leaves are softer in appearance and texture. Both trail beautifully and can be trained to climb a moss pole or cascade from a hanging basket.
In low-light conditions, heartleaf philodendron maintains its growth rate better than some low-light alternatives — it continues putting out new leaves at a reasonable pace even in quite dim conditions. The leaves produced in low light will be slightly smaller and the internodal spacing (distance between leaves on the stem) will be longer than in brighter conditions, giving a more open, trailing look. If this bothers you aesthetically, pinching the growing tips encourages bushier growth even in low-light conditions.
Watering is straightforward: allow the top 2–5cm of soil to dry between waterings, and reduce frequency significantly in low light and winter. Heartleaf philodendron is mildly toxic if ingested. For full guidance, see our comprehensive philodendron care guide, which covers multiple philodendron varieties and their specific needs.
7. Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema)
Chinese evergreen — Aglaonema — is among the most durable and adaptable of all houseplants, and it has the added advantage of being available in a remarkable range of colours that make it far more visually interesting than the typical "low-light plant" stereotype of plain green foliage. Named for the Chinese word for "evergreen," Aglaonema has been cultivated as an indoor plant across Southeast Asia for centuries, with particular reverence in Chinese culture where it is considered a good luck plant.
The variety of Aglaonema available today is extraordinary: from classic deep green varieties with silver markings (A. 'Silver Bay', A. 'Maria') to dramatic red-and-green forms (A. 'Red Aglaonema', A. 'Siam Aurora') and pink-splashed varieties (A. 'Pink Dalmatian', A. 'Wishes'). The darker-coloured varieties — particularly the silver-green forms — are the most shade-tolerant and perform well in genuinely dim conditions. The brighter-coloured varieties (reds, pinks) contain less chlorophyll and need slightly more light to maintain their vivid colouration, making them better suited to brighter indirect light conditions.
In low-light rooms, choose a green or silver-green Aglaonema rather than a red or pink variety for the best results. Even a standard green variety provides significant visual interest through its patterned, glossy leaves and its compact, bushy growth habit. Chinese evergreen rarely becomes leggy in low light — it maintains its form better than trailing plants in dim conditions. Allow the soil to dry moderately between waterings; in very low light, water perhaps every 10–14 days. Aglaonema prefers temperatures above 15°C and dislikes cold draughts, making it well-suited to climate-controlled indoor environments.
8. Dracaena
The dracaena family is broad and encompasses many species and varieties, from the slender, dramatic Dracaena marginata (Madagascar dragon tree) to the wide-leafed D. fragrans (corn plant) and the compact, colourful D. reflexa 'Song of India.' What the family shares is a genuine tolerance of lower light conditions and a similar approach to care — allowing soil to dry substantially between waterings and avoiding cold draughts.
Dracaena marginata, with its long, slender, red-edged leaves on bare canes, is one of the most recognizable architectural houseplants and performs well in lower light — though, like all dracaenas, it grows more slowly in dim conditions and maintains rather than actively flourishes. The canes continue growing upward, adding character as they age and branch. In very low light, some of the lower leaves will yellow and drop periodically — this is normal leaf cycling rather than decline.
D. fragrans (corn plant) produces wide, strap-like leaves often with a yellow centre stripe, and tolerates conditions similar to marginata. Its broader leaves capture light more efficiently, making it slightly better suited to genuinely dim conditions. D. 'Janet Craig', with its all-dark-green wide leaves, is among the most shade-tolerant of the dracaenas. All dracaenas are sensitive to fluoride — brown leaf tips are characteristic and common, especially when watered with fluoride-treated tap water. Use filtered or rainwater for the best leaf appearance. For more detail, see our complete dracaena care guide.
Dracaenas are toxic to cats and dogs if ingested, causing vomiting and lethargy. For pet-accessible spaces, choose spider plant, parlor palm, or cast iron plant instead. In appropriate conditions, dracaenas are extraordinarily long-lived — indoor specimens decades old are not uncommon, and the cane structure becomes more interesting and dramatic with age.
9. Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)
Palms are not typically considered low-light plants — most palm species need very bright light and many prefer direct sun. The parlor palm is the significant exception. Chamaedorea elegans is native to the rainforest understorey of Mexico and Guatemala, where it grows in the filtered, dappled light beneath a dense canopy — an environment that produces some of the lowest light intensities of any tropical habitat. This evolutionary history makes it the most genuinely low-light-tolerant palm available as a houseplant.
The parlor palm's common name reflects its Victorian-era popularity as a parlour decoration — in the same period when cast iron plants were valued for their hardiness, parlor palms were prized for their elegant, feathery fronds and relatively forgiving nature indoors. Today they remain one of the most popular small palms for indoor use, available as single-stemmed specimens or in multi-stemmed clusters.
In low-light conditions, parlor palm grows very slowly — which is actually an advantage for those who want a manageable size plant over the long term. The fronds maintain their graceful, arching form even in dim conditions, and the plant rarely becomes leggy or loses its elegant shape. It tolerates the humidity levels of typical indoor environments (40–50%) without complaint, unlike many tropical plants that demand higher humidity. It is also one of the few palms that is entirely non-toxic to cats and dogs — an important consideration for pet owners who want a palm's aesthetic without the toxicity risk of other species.
Water when the top 2–3cm of soil feels dry, and be particularly careful not to overwater in low-light conditions where growth and water consumption are slow. Brown tips on the fronds are almost universal on indoor palms and are typically caused by low humidity or fluoride in water rather than any serious care problem — trim the brown tips with scissors at an angle to maintain the frond's natural shape. Avoid repotting frequently; parlor palms prefer being slightly root-bound and react poorly to unnecessary root disturbance.
10. Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum)
Spider plant is one of the most adaptable houseplants available, and its low-light tolerance is genuine rather than merely marketed. Native to tropical and southern Africa, Chlorophytum comosum tolerates a wide range of light conditions — from bright indirect light to surprisingly dim rooms — and maintains its characteristic fountain of arching, strap-like leaves across that range. It is also one of the most widely studied houseplants in air quality research, consistently demonstrating capacity to remove formaldehyde and other volatile organic compounds from indoor air.
In very low-light conditions, spider plant shows a characteristic change: the variegated forms (with white or cream centre or edge stripes) will reduce their variegation, producing more strongly green leaves as the plant attempts to maximize chlorophyll production to capture available light. The all-green form (Chlorophytum comosum 'Vittatum') or the all-green species form is therefore the better choice for genuinely dim rooms — it maintains consistent appearance across a wider range of light conditions without the variegation change. In brighter indirect light, the variegated forms are more visually striking.
One of spider plant's great appeals is its prolificity — mature plants produce long runners bearing miniature "spiderette" plantlets that dangle from the parent plant in hanging baskets, creating a dramatic cascading effect. These plantlets can be rooted in water and potted up to produce new plants with minimal effort, making spider plant an excellent choice for those who enjoy propagation. In low-light conditions, plantlet production is slower than in brighter positions, but still occurs. For complete care information, see our spider plant care guide.
11. Peperomia
The peperomia genus is vast — over 1,000 species — and includes plants adapted to an enormous range of habitats. The houseplant varieties most suited to low-light conditions are those with thicker, more succulent leaves that store water internally, enabling them to photosynthesize less frequently without dying. Peperomia obtusifolia (baby rubber plant) and Peperomia rotundifolia (trailing jade) are among the most shade-tolerant varieties and make excellent low-light choices.
Thick-leaved peperomias store water in their leaves much like succulents, which means they need watering infrequently — a significant advantage in low-light conditions where growth is slow and overwatering risk is high. Allow the soil to dry completely between waterings (every 10–21 days depending on conditions) and the plant will remain healthy and attractive for months without significant attention. The risk with peperomia in low light is almost always overwatering rather than underwatering.
The variety of forms, textures, and patterns available in peperomia makes them particularly rewarding to collect — watermelon peperomia (P. argyreia) with its striped leaves, ripple peperomia (P. caperata) with deeply textured corrugated leaves, and coin-leaf peperomia (P. polybotrya) with its glossy, shield-shaped leaves are all distinctive and attractive. Most peperomia are compact in growth habit (20–30cm), making them ideal for small spaces like desk surfaces, shelves, or bathroom windowsills. For more information, see our full peperomia care guide.
In terms of light, thicker-leaved varieties tolerate genuine low light; thinner-leaved and more brightly coloured varieties (like the red-edged P. graveolens or the bright P. clusiifolia 'Rainbow') prefer brighter indirect light to maintain their colouring. In very dim conditions, all peperomia grow extremely slowly — acceptable for a plant valued as a long-term companion rather than for rapid growth.
12. Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana)
Lucky bamboo is not actually bamboo at all — it is Dracaena sanderiana, a member of the dracaena family reclassified from the previous genus Sansevieria. The name comes from its appearance: the green, segmented stems do resemble bamboo visually, and the plant has been associated with Feng Shui traditions and good luck symbolism in Chinese and Southeast Asian cultures for centuries. It is commonly sold in decorative vases or containers filled with water and pebbles, rather than in soil.
The ability to grow in water rather than soil makes lucky bamboo uniquely low-maintenance from a certain perspective — there is no soil to monitor, no drainage holes needed, and no risk of overwatering in the traditional sense. The stems sit in a container of clean water with the roots submerged, and require only a weekly water change to prevent stagnation and algae buildup. In soil, lucky bamboo is watered when the top layer dries, similar to other dracaenas.
In low-light conditions, lucky bamboo maintains its appearance well, growing slowly but steadily. The stems may etiolate slightly (stretch toward the light) in very dim rooms, producing longer internodes, but the overall plant remains attractive and manageable. If stems begin to yellow, the most common causes are fluoride in the water (use filtered water), too much direct sun (move to indirect light), or overcrowding in the container. Lucky bamboo grows well under fluorescent office lighting, making it a classic choice for workplace desks. It is non-toxic in small amounts but should not be confused with actual bamboo, which is edible — Dracaena sanderiana consumption should be avoided.
Plants Often Sold as Low-Light That Aren't
Several popular plants are routinely described as "low-light tolerant" in garden centres and online shops — a designation that is either inaccurate or based on a very generous interpretation of what "tolerates" means. These plants will decline, look poor, and eventually die in genuinely low-light conditions:
- Fiddle leaf fig (Ficus lyrata): Requires bright, consistent light — ideally 1 metre from a south or east-facing window. Will drop leaves dramatically in low light. One of the most light-demanding popular houseplants, despite frequent "moderate light" descriptions.
- Most succulents: The majority of succulent species (echeveria, haworthia, aloe, crassula) need direct sun or very bright indirect light. Only a handful (haworthia, gasteria) genuinely tolerate low light.
- Most flowering plants: Flowering requires significant energy, which requires significant light. Anthuriums, bromeliads, hibiscus, and most other flowering houseplants need bright indirect light to bloom and decline quickly in dim conditions.
- Calathea: Despite frequent "low-light" descriptions, calathea actually needs decent indirect light to maintain its dramatic leaf patterning. In genuinely low light, the patterns fade and new growth is weak. "Tolerates lower light than most" is being reinterpreted as "low light" — which it is not. See our calathea care guide for full light requirements.
- Monstera deliciosa: Genuinely adaptable to medium light, but at the lower end of its range (dim rooms), leaf fenestrations (holes) do not develop and growth stalls significantly. It performs best in bright indirect light.
Signs Your "Low-Light" Plant Isn't Getting Enough Light
Even the most shade-tolerant plants on this list have a lower light threshold — a minimum below which they begin to decline. Recognizing the signs of insufficient light allows you to intervene before significant damage occurs:
- Leggy or stretched growth: Long stems with widely spaced leaves, the plant "reaching" toward its light source. This is called etiolation — the plant is stretching to find more light. The stretched growth is structurally weak and rarely reverses.
- Smaller new leaves: New leaves significantly smaller than existing mature leaves indicate the plant lacks sufficient energy for normal leaf development. Compare new growth to old — if it's consistently getting smaller, light is insufficient.
- Pale or fading colour: Overall lightening of leaf colour, loss of variegation in variegated plants, or yellowing of lower leaves (beyond normal leaf cycling) can indicate insufficient light for adequate chlorophyll production.
- Plant leaning strongly toward light: Some leaning toward a window is normal (phototropism). Extreme leaning — the plant nearly horizontal toward the light source — indicates it's reaching desperately for insufficient light. Rotate regularly to prevent and monitor.
- Slow or zero growth over multiple months: While low-light plants grow more slowly, complete cessation of growth (no new leaves for 3–4 months during the growing season) suggests light is below survivable minimum. Some seasonal slowdown in winter is normal for all plants.
Tips for Maximising Light in Dark Rooms
Even in dim rooms, several practical strategies can meaningfully increase the light available to your plants without moving them or installing expensive lighting:
- Clean your windows: Dirty windows can reduce light transmission by 20–30%. Regular cleaning — both inside and outside — makes a measurable difference to the light levels in a room.
- Use light-coloured walls and surfaces: White or light-coloured walls reflect light around the room far more efficiently than dark walls. If redecorating, consider this specifically for plant spaces. Mirrors positioned to reflect window light can double the effective light in a specific area.
- Position near doorways and corridors: Light from adjacent rooms travels through open doorways and down corridors. Plants positioned near these openings receive reflected and ambient light from multiple sources, which adds up meaningfully.
- Wipe dust from leaves: Dust on leaves physically blocks light from reaching the leaf surface. Wipe large-leafed plants monthly with a damp cloth. This is particularly important for the large-leafed plants (dracaena, cast iron plant, peace lily) where dust accumulation is most significant.
- Supplement with a full-spectrum LED grow light: This is the most effective solution for truly dim rooms. Modern LED grow lights are energy-efficient, produce minimal heat, and come in compact forms that fit on a shelf or clip to a desk. Running 10–14 hours per day on a timer, a single LED panel can transform a dark corner into a genuinely viable plant growing space.
Frequently Asked Questions
The 12 plants on this list are the genuine low-light champions — not plants that merely "tolerate" reduced light for a few months before declining, but plants adapted by evolution to thrive in forest-floor conditions where light is consistently limited. Start with a pothos, snake plant, or ZZ plant if you're new to low-light growing, and expand your collection from there as you understand the specific conditions of your space. Related guides: Best Houseplants Guide, Pothos Care, Snake Plant Guide, and Dracaena Care.